Like the seven sun-dappled hills that overlook the sparkling Rio Tejo, Lisbon has had its ups and downs. Nevertheless, the plucky city has always bounced back and today it’s positively thriving: well-travelled residents and foreign talent are opening smart businesses behind every other crumbling, azulejo-covered façade.Most visitors spend their time in the historic old town but we’re going to take you further afield. We’ve combed the cobbled streets to find the best bacalhau, the creamiest pastéis de nata and the sweetest ginjinha. We’ve visited museums dedicated to everything ;from horse-drawn carriages to cutting-edge technology and discovered daringly modern architecture among red-tiled townhouses and baroque churches. Our favourite hotels range from a refurbished 15th-century palácio to a glossy guesthouse, while the retail we rate includes a family-run glove-maker and a snappy bookshop with an in-house gallery.